I know how annoying and confusing it may be to follow the exact steps and regime suggested by bloggers yet still end up with frizzy, dry and brittle hair. I’m sure you all know about using an oil or butter to seal to retain hydration and moisture but if none of this is working for you, it may be due to your hair’s porosity.
What is Porosity? Porosity is your hairs ability to absorb and maintain moisture. There are three ranges: Low, Medium, and High
Low Porosity: This means your cuticles are tight and pretty resistant to opening up to water and moisture. This is more than likely due to genetics. Does it usually feel like products you apply are just sitting on top of your hair and no matter what you do, your hair remains dry? Your hair doesn’t readily absorb products; hence its inability to retain the moisture and shine your hair needs. The great thing about having low porosity hair is that once the moisture gets in, it is sealed! I suggest using products with more alkaline ingredients to help lift cuticles.
Medium/Normal Porosity: This one is pretty straightforward. If you have normal porosity, your hair lets in and holds moisture. Continue to deep condition regularly and use little to no heat.
High Porosity: Does your hair stay wet for a really long time? Does it seem like as soon as you moisturize your hair, it gets dry again? Well that’s because there are gaps and holes in your cuticles. This may be an inherent trait of your hair or may be a sign that your hair damaged from heat use, chemicals, or products that strip your hair of its natural oils. Granted, it is super easy for moisture to get in, but as easy as it for moisture to get in is as easy as it is to leave. Your hair is almost like a sponge. Thicker butters and products with more oils are helpful for this hair type as they will seal the cuticle and even serve as a protective layer. Use products with a low pH, which are acidic and will help open the cuticle. Also, try sealing with Aloe Vera (Pure) after using your leave in conditioner. Using a diluted apple cider rinse can be useful as well.
I know many of you are familiar with the strand of hair in the cup of water test to determine your hair’s porosity. Unfortunately this test has no scientific basis. JC of the Natural Haven, a scientific natural hair blog did a great article about this entitled Junk Science – Hair Porosity Tests / Float or Sink that explained why this test is not worth it. You are better off observing your hair’s reaction to the products you use and how it responds to water in order to determine your hair’s porosity.